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Le tour de la montagne de Puligny: Le Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet and St-Aubin

 

It was very interesting to taste 3 Saint Aubin premier Cru from different altitudes, as the lowest in altitude “Les Combes” showed ripe fruit, the highest “Murgers dents de chien” showed high minerality and acidity, and “En Remilly” in the middle showed the best of both!!

Same in the Puligny Montrachet where the Champ Gain was just amazing… we finished on the Le Montrachet from Bouchard 2014, was probably too young, showed indeed very well, but not much better than the best 1er Cru…

2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes
Golden colour, ripe nose freshly cutted grass dried in the sun, quite complex ananas, yellow apple… Taste nice flinstones, mineral, hint of acidity, yellow apple, hint of greeness, seems a bit warm compared to other St-Aubins (90 pts.)

2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Puligny-Montrachet Le Trézin
Light nose of flintstones, mineral, very high freshness and acidity, golden dried grass in the sun… Nice concentration, nice citrus, good lenght, nice mineral finish (93 pts.)

2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Very very mineral, high acidity nose, loads of flintstones… Huge freshness, great great citrus, huge mineral, good lenght… This is one of the most mineral and high acidity St-Aubins!! (93 pts.)

2015 Gerard Thomas Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne
Huge nose of honey, yellow apple, freshnly cutted grass dried in the sun, hint of vanilla… Sharp acidity, huge minerality, good lenght… a very good QPR compared to the more expensive PYCM’s… (93 pts.)

2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly
One of the best St-Aubins I’ve had!! Huge minerality, flintstones, lasersharp citrus… huge freshness and minerality and quite long aftertaste. I just love it!! (94 pts.)

2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain
Super concentrated and beautifull nose of honey and citrus, hint of green grass, orange peel, ananas, yellow apple… Very complex and long aftertaste, citrus, mineral, good concentration… This is one of the best Puligny’s I’ve had!! (96 pts.)

2015 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Perrières
Light and delicate nose of matchstick, honey, loads of citrus, very “Coche” style… High acidity, citrus, hint of mineral, good lenght… great wine, but I believe the Clos de la Mouchère is even better! (94 pts.)

2014 Bouchard Père et Fils Montrachet
Huge nose of ripe citrus, nice balanced minerality and acidity, tropical fruit, a bit more oily than the 1er Crus… Lenght of 60 seconds. This is a fabulous wine, but far from a good QPR!! (95 pts.)

2000 Coche-Dury Bourgogne
Very light and dusty nose, red berries… quite thin and evolved, this wine should have been drunken 5 years ago… Coche is a genuis in white, but I’m not a big fan of this red… dissapointing! (87 pts.)

Château Le Pin Trilogie 11.12.13
Very nice nose of chocolate, dark ripe black fruit, cedar box… taste is nice with polished tannins, average lenght… this is a good but not great Pomerol (93 pts.)

2011 Domaine Jean Grivot Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts
Delicious nose of ripe red berries and barbecue spices, very transparent, very nice refreshing acidity balancing the ripe fruit, good lenght, great red Burgundy! (93 pts.)

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Brunello di Montalcino

Brunello 2017

The Livio Sassetti Brunello di Montalcino confirmed that 1997 is still the star vintage!  Recent vintages like 2010 or 2012 are far too primary… 2004 is starting to emerge… So it seems that 15 years is the ideal drinking window for top Brunello!!

2012 La Querciolina Maremma Toscana Istriciaia
Very nice nose of ripe red berries, sandalwood, mushrooms… Nice acidity, sappy red berries, hint of tannic grip, nice entry wine. (89 points)

2015 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) Rosso di Montalcino
Discrete nose of red berries, very primary, sous-bois… Nice polished tannin, red berries, average lenght, still too young, to revisit in 5 years. (90 points)

2007 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Rosso di Montalcino
Animal, gamey nose, cèpes de Bordeaux, ripe red cherries… sappy red berries, tannic but well integrated, good lenght. Acid and sappy finish, needs food! (91 points)

1990 Castello di San Polo in Rosso Chianti Classico Cetinaia
Nose of BBQ, roasted beef, ripe red cherries, exotic wood, cigar box gamey… Super polished tannin, super sappy red cherries, this little wine is not very concentrated, but is at perfect maturity and is very delicious at age 27!! (93 points)

2009 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino
Nose of mokka and coffee, gamey, beef blood… Ripe tanins, red cherries, a bit flat and lacking the tension of colder years. (91 points)

2010 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino
Very primary nose of exotic wood, cigar box, black cherries; iodine, still incredibly young… Tannic monster, cigar box, red berries and cherries, lenght of 30 seconds, wait 5 or 10 more years minimum! needs food. (95 points)

2012 Fontodi Flaccianello della Pieve Colli della Toscana Centrale IGT
Black characoal, black primary fruit… Tons of black fruit, laser sharp tannin present, but finish very polished… Lenght of 45 seconds, great Flaccianello!! (96 points)

2004 Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino
Light nose of red berries, forest floor… Very concentrated taste, loads of sappy tannin, loads of ripe red cherries, good balancing acidity, great lenght of 30 sec, still a bit closed, wait 2-3 more years. (95 points)

2012 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) Brunello di Montalcino
Light but complex nose of cerise griotte, Cohiba cigar, little red berries, hint of salinity, very elegant nose… Loads of polished and ripe tannin, super delicate red berries, hint of minerality, pure elegance, still very young, will be better in 5 years. (95 points)

1997 Pertimali (Livio Sassetti) Brunello di Montalcino
WOW, nose of brown sugar, cigar box, soy sauce, gamey, roasted meat, exotic wood… Taste is super concentrated, super ripe tannin coating the mouth, loads of cohiba cigar, lenght of 30-45 seconds, great Brunello at perfect maturity, I love Brunello!! (98 points)

Saint-Aubin: The Puligny-Montrachet of the poor man… :-)

2017-bourgogne-saint-aubin-22017-bourgogne-saint-aubin

Saint-Aubin is one of my preferred terroir in white Burgundy and very much in the style of Puligny-Montrachet…  It is the only village in white Burgundy that has a majority of 1er Cru parcels… and even some the Saint-Aubin village parcels have the steepness of 1er Cru of other villages!!  From a vintage perspective, the 2015’s are very rich and concentrated, and the 2016 look very promising with a laser sharp acidity and minerality!!

2015 Gerard Thomas Bourgogne Blanc
Light nose of green apple, light grilled hazelnut… delicious taste of yellow apple, almonds, grilled hazelnut, very delicious little Bourgogne. From the parcel “Les Charmeaux” in the village of Saint-Aubin (89 pts.)

2015 Gerard Thomas Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Chatenière
Delicious nose of hazelnuts, yellow apple, hint of vanilla, very floral and feminine… Taste is very delicious and en finesse, very nice fat and acidity, good balance, and finish of hazelnut (91 pts.)

2015 Gerard Thomas Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Light nose of smoke and Grany Smith… Nice roundness, yellow apple, hint of fat and nice acidity to balance the wine (91 pts.)

2016 Gerard Thomas Bourgogne Blanc
Very nice nose of green apples, citrus, pamplemousse, hint of vanilla… Delicious grilled hazelnut, green and yellow apple, pamplemouse, really really nice white Bourgogne. (90 pts.)

2016 Gerard Thomas Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Chatenière
Nose of citrus and mineral… taste of pamplemousse and citrus, superb acicity and minerality, very nice balance, very nice vintage!! (93 pts.)

2016 Gerard Thomas Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Nose of citrus and pamplemousse… Very nice taste of citrus, pamplemousse, hint of mineral, good tension, good lenght and concentration… The barrels from Alliet are a bit better than Vosges… (93 pts.)

2016 Gerard Thomas Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes
Superb nose of pamplemousse and citrus… Super delicious taste of citrus and pamplemousse, 2016 looks like a great vintage in white Burgundy!! (93 pts.)

2016 Gerard Thomas Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne
Nose of yellow and green apple… Very nice acidity, citrus, pamplemousse, hint of minerality, very nice lenght and balance (94 pts.)

2015 Chateauneuf: Laurent Charvin

2017-charvin

 

Laurent Charvin is the closest in style to Chateau Rayas… And he is also strongly defending the identity of the Côtes du Rhone terroir, and indeed, his côtes du Rhone 2014 is fabulous, the 2016 is even better… In fact the whole line-up was fabulous!!  I love Charvin 🙂

2014 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône (Le Poutet)
Wow wow huge nose super spicy with black licorice… Super delicious, salty salty salty delicious, griotte ripe red cherries, I love Charvin!! (92 pts.)

2015 Domaine Charvin Vin de Pays de la Principauté d’Orange ‘à côté’
Very black fruit, black licorice, very salty… Nice freshness, black fruit, super long nice fresh mineral (90 pts.)

2016 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône (Le Poutet)
Huge nose, very black licorice, very ripe black cherries, blueberries… Delicious, super fruity, perfect balance, red and black cherries, this is a Côtes du Rhone at Chateauneuf level, super silky tannins!! (93 pts.)

2014 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Closed nose of licorice, super spicy, griotte cherries… Very concentrated, loads of ripe tannins, super delicious, cerise griotte, I love it!! (95 pts.)

2015 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape
HUGE, FABULOUS, KNOCKS YOUR PANTS OFF, super black licorice, super salty black cherries, blueberries… Super delicious, fresh mineral, black characoal, very dark but ripe and gourmand!! (97 pts.)

2016 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Very nice red and black cherries, a little bit closed now… Licorice, blueberries, salty black cherries, super long aftertaste of 45 seconds!! (97 pts.)

Horizontal: Chateauneuf 2003

2017 Chateauneuf 2003

I strongly believe that 2003 is a legendary vintage like 1990 or 1985 in Chateauneuf-du-Pape… Not all wines made it, but the ones who are there are truly out of this world… the stand-out wines tonight are the Mon Aieul 2003 for it’s finesse… the Pégau 2003 for it’s animal character… and the Deus Ex Machina 2003 for it’s concentration, this is almost “essence of Chateauneuf” and is flying way above it’s pairs … To me deserves a note of 101/100 if that would exist!! 🙂

2003 Les Cailloux (Lucien et André Brunel) Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Nice nose of red berries, bacon fat, nice but not very complex… Super concentrated sappy red cherries, loads of sappy tannins, very good lenght, great wine! (93 points)

2003 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape
WOW, very fresh and mineral nose, you would never guess this is 2003, but rather a 2005, delicious nose of sandalwood, ripe red berries, roasted bacon… Taste is high mineral, fresh acidity, loads of silky tannins, loads of bacon and ripe cerise du Nord, very good lenght of 30 seconds! (95 points)

2003 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape
WoW wow wow… I can’t believe I give such a high score to a traditonal Chateauneuf, super concentrated nose of bacon fat, hint of licorice, herbes de Provence, BBQ meat…. Super delicious taste and concentration, ripe red cherries, bacon sauce, fresh acidity with silky tannins… Amazing concentration for a “Tradition” Chateauneuf!! (96 points)

2003 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée de mon Aïeul
Wow delicious sandalwood, loads of leather, ripe strawberries, hint of caramel and brown sugar but in a nice way… Super fine silky tannins, starting light with sappy red cherries, building up with time with a lenght of 45 sec. (98 points)

2003 Domaine du Pégaü Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Réservée
Whaouw… Magic Pégau! Provencal spices, strong farmyard (If you like that…) loads of sappy strawberries, sandalwood, bacon, leather… taste of spice, sappy red strawberries, leather, super silky tannins, lenght of 45 seconds…. great great wine!! (99 points)

2003 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus-Ex Machina
You just can’t believe that this wine is real… It is way above all other Chateauneufs 2003!! Super concentrated nose of bacon, roasted red cherries, Herbes de Provence, hint of licorice… Very dark cherries, still very primary and young compared to it’s pairs, loads of ripe and silky tannins… amazingly young and not yet at peak… if one wine would deserve 101/100, it would be this wine!!! Bravo to the Maurel brothers!! (100 points)

2015 Chateauneuf: Le Clos du caillou

2017-clos-du-caillou

The domaine Le Clos du Caillou is on a roll, the wines tasted superbly in the 2015 vintage… It was also the 1st time that Marilou Vacheron (Sylvie’s daughter) hosted the tasting… at 23 years Marilou knows what she is talking about and is very precise, I asked her when was the 1st time she tasted wine… She answered me it was when she was 4 years old!! That explains…  🙂   Their top wines “La Reserve” in Côtes du Rhone and Chateauneuf are out of this world and absolut MUST HAVE  for serious collectors!!

2016 Le Clos du Caillou Côtes du Rhône
Nose of licorice, ripe black cherries, very mineral, characoal, superb!!… Delicious crisp tannins, a superb balance! (91 pts.)

2015 Le Clos du Caillou Côtes du Rhône Les Quartz
WOW, mine de crayon, very black cherries, super concentrated nose, licorice, meaty with superb minerality… WOW super fresh black cherries, characoal, cerise griotte, very delicious!! (94 pts.)

2015 Le Clos du Caillou Côtes du Rhône La Réserve
Huge nose of BBQ, meatyn roasted meat… Pure fruit, very very fruity, black cherries, super sappy, lenght of 30 seconds… a Côtes du Rhone out of this world!! (95 pts.)

2015 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Tradition
Nose of black licorice, characoal, salty griotte… Super delicious taste of black and red cherries, very mineral, parfect balance, lenght of 20 sec!! (92 pts.)

2015 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Safres
Huge nose of salty black cherries, black licorice, very very nice nose!! Super nice balanced black cherries, super salty licorice, very very well balanced!! (94 pts.)

2015 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine du Caillou Les Quartz
Nose of black ripe cherries, a bit closed at the moment… Delicious ripe tannins, red salty cherries, to be retasted in 3 years (95+ pts.)

2015 Le Clos du Caillou Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Réserve
Huge huge animal nose, licorice, super delicious, black cherries… Super ripe tannins, delicious concentration, black and red cherries, licorice, bacon fat, animal, really delicious, almost perfect wine!! (99 pts.)

2015 Chateauneuf: Clos Saint-Jean

2017-chimere

2015 is a fabulous vintage for Clos Saint-Jean… Of course Clos Saint-Jean has this fabulous concentration and compexity from the “La Crau” terroir… But this year the vintage has brought incredible freshness and minerality that makes them really special and delicious!!

2015 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Nose of cold and ripe black cherries, licorice, spices cake… All “en finesse”, sappy tannins, ripe red cherries, nice acidity, cold vintage (93 pts.)

2015 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape La Combe des Fous
Nose of very black fruit, chocolate, licorice, mokka… Very concentrated, but very fresh, red fruit, acid red berries, very much finesse and mineral for a Clos Saint Jean!! (95 pts.)

2015 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Deus-Ex Machina
Huge nose of spices, huge ripe black cherries, licorice, bacon fat… BBQ sauce, soy sauce, very black cherries, characoal, very long aftertaste 30 sec!! (97 pts.)

2015 Clos Saint Jean Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sanctus Sanctorum
Huge nose of black cherries, pain d’épices, very spicy, bacon fat… WOW delicious bacon fat, BBQ sauce, super ripe red and black cherries, one of the best sanctus tasted, 60 seconds finish. BRAVO!! (98 pts.)

2015 Chimère Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Barrel sample: Huge salty, mineral, roasted bacon, licorice, ripe red cherries… Very delicious sappy ripe red cherries, super silky tannins, BBQ steak, I repeat myself but this wine is very delicious!! [i][b](99 pts.)[/b][/i]

2016 Chimère Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Very early barrel sample of Mourvèdre… Very very black nose, cold black cherries, very cold and dark impenetrable wine, loads of integrated tannins… to be retasted next year 🙂