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Rayas – Barrel samples 2017 vintage

 

2017 will be an amazing vintage for Rayas and Fonsalette… also very special here is the inclusion of some “grapillons” that were harvested in November to add some soft acidity… Very interesting to listen to Emmanuel Reynaud!

2017 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve
Couchant barrel sample: Nose of ripe red cherries, griotte, peper… Nice concentration of cherries, very very silky tannins and very very long aftertaste. Levant barrel sample: Floral nose, quite spicy, saline, pain d’épices… Tannins are very very refined, rose petal, griottes, roasted meat. (97 points)

2017 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette Cuvée Syrah
Nose of violette, peper, spices, red and black cherries, very saline and mineral… Very violette, very sappy and saline taste, cerise griotte, very nice lenght. (95 points)

2017 Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Pignan Reserve
Nose if very spicy, very meaty… ripe red berries, nice maturity combined with very nice acidity from the grapillons. Harvested between 15 November after the rain and 15 December(barrel code SGI) (93 points)

2017 Château Rayas Côtes du Rhône Château de Fonsalette Reserve
Cinsault barrel: Very very spicy, clou de girofle… Cerise griotte, high salinity, transparent but saline. 92/100.  Grenache barrel: pepery nose, red berries, saline… Quite spicy, red berries 91/100 (92 points)

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Philippe Charlopin: Chambertin Grand Cru 2016

It was a very extensive tasting with Philippe Chalopin, with 17 different wines, from Village, 1er Cru, Grand Cru and THE famous Chambertin with was absolutely magic!!

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Chambertin
WOW nose of delicious black cherries, cèpes de Bordeaux, sandalwood, characoal… Super concentrated, loads of super ripe tannin, sappy concentration fruit… 60 seconds finish… WHAOUWW!! (97-98/100)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Bonnes Mares
Powerful nose, concentrated ripe red cherries, cèpes de Bordeaux… Loads of ripe tannin, ripe red cherries, delicious, hedonistic! (95 points)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Charmes-Chambertin
Superb nose of ripe Griotte cherries, salinity, sous-bois, cèpes… Beautiful Griotte cherries, saline, sappy, delicious!! (95 points)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Clos St. Denis
Floral nose, red and black cherries… Calcaire terroir, taste is building up with time, a lot of potential ahead!! (95-96/100)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Gevrey-Chambertin Les Evocelles
Superb nose of cerise griotte, salinity… Terroir of marnes, cherries, salinity, very sappy, nice lenght … (94-95/100)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Mazis-Chambertin
Agrumes, a hint of vegetal, fresh red cherries, … Very mineral taste, fresh cherries, salinity, very fresh… To be retasted… (94 points)

2017 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Mazis-Chambertin
Very light mineral, sappy red fruit… Very light, but very good!! (94-95/100)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Clos Vougeot
Terreux nose, black fruit, a bit closed… Light taste, a bit closed tannins, terrous, red cherries, fresh (93 points)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Bel-Air
Just aside Clos de Bèze, sol calcaire… Ripe red fruit… Vin de garde, tannins serrés, fresh red fruit… to be retasted in 5 years! (93 points)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Very nice nose of ripe black cherries, characoal, smoke… taste calcaire, very nice freshness, red and black delicious fruit, very silky tannins (93-94/100)

2017 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Charmes-Chambertin
Very mineral taste, nice freshness, red fresh cherries, delicious and very fresh 93-94/100 (93 points)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice
Superb nose of cherries, oriental spices, sous-bois… Beautiful tannins, fresh fruit, very nice (92 points)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Marsannay En Montchenevoy
This climat will become 1er Cru in 3-4 years and be renamed “Longeroy” Superb nose of black ripe cherries, very nice mineral… Beautiful ripe tannin, ripe black cherries, black characoal, delicious!! (92-93/100)

2017 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Very fresh taste, nice sappy fruit, nice minerality, average lenght (92 points)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Gevrey-Chambertin Les Terres Blanches
Nice nose of black fresh fruit, blueberries, sous-bois… Very fresh, sappy, fresh red fruit, very nice (91 points)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Marsannay
Mineral nose, ripe red cherries… Very mineral taste, nice freshness, sappy red fruit (89 points)

2016 Domaine Philippe Charlopin Bourgogne
Nose of small red fruits, fresh, sous-bois… sweet tannins, red cherries, nice freshness (88 points)

Bordeaux 2003 – Horizontal

Bordeaux 2003_2018

As 2003 is a very controversial vintage in Bordeaux, it was time to revisit how some top wines are evolving at age of 15 years… The traditional winemakers like Pontet Canet is a real winner, as at age of 15 the wine is in perfect balance with zero signs of heat of the vintage!!

2003 Château Branaire-Ducru
Delicious nice nose of cedar, mushrooms, forest floor, black fruit, charcoal…. taste is dominated by ripe tannin, cold black fruit, loads of ripe tannin, good lenght. (93 points)

2003 Clos Mogador Priorat
Huge nose of strawberries, iodine, nice minerality, flint stone… taste of sweet strawberries, backed by super nice acidity and super silky tannin, finish of 30 sec, plenty of life ahead!! (95 points)

2003 Château Smith Haut Lafitte
Concentrated nose of smoke, BBQ meat, red & black cherries, cedar wood… Super delicious ripe tannin, red cherries, refreshing acidity, good lenght 20 sec (92 points)

2003 Château Léoville Barton
Strong cedar nose, Louis Vuitton leather bag, black fruit, charcoal… Very masculine taste with loads of integrated tannin, forest floor, mushrooms, ending a bit dry and masculine compared to other 2003’s (91 points)

2003 Château Lascombes
Loads of vanilla, coffee, mokka, very modern ripe black fruit… This is not very concentrated, but tannins are present, rather short and lacking a bit of midweight and a hint of green in the finish… much too modern and a bit dissapointing. (89 points)

2003 Château Pontet-Canet
WOW, super refined nose of cigar box, tobacco, cedar wood and loads of black cassis… Very very dark cold black fruit, almost iron cold, super silky tannin, finish of 45 seconds, great great wine!!! (97 points)

2003 Clos Fourtet
Incredible nose of dark chocolate, cedar wood, exotic sandalwood, ripe black fruit, hint of cappuccino in the end… Explosion of black fruit, backed up with a solid ripe tannin backbone, goes on for 45 sec length, great wine!! (96 points)

2003 Bodegas Mauro Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León – Terreus
A mess of too modern and extracted wine… Cherries jam, coffee, a bit too modern for me… Loads of strawberries, loads of refined tannin, there is no defect, but too much in a modern style for my taste… might improve with age though… (89 points)

Grand Cru Burgundy: Drouhin-Laroze visit

What a pleasure to taste all these Grand Crus from barrel in 2017 vintage with Caroline Drouhin who has recently taken over from her father… The wines were incredibly mineral, feminine, respecting the terroir, super sappy taste with an incredible concentration, “tout en finesse” and very elegant… From the Gevrey Village, to the Chambertin’s Grand Cru’s!!

 

Tasting of 2017 from barrel:

2017 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin en Champs
50 years old vines…Delicious, ripe black fruit, sous-bois… Silky tannin, nice concentration, black cherries, very fresh. (91 points)

2017 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Latricières-Chambertin
Superb nose of roasted cherries, wood spices… Very nice ripe tannin, sappy ripe strawberries, delicious spicyness! (94 points)

2017 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin
Terroir calcaire… Nose of fresh red fruit, floral… Very fresh, mineral, red cherries, very complex and silky! (92 points)

2017 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
Nice nose of ripe red and black cherries, hint of vanilla… Loads of very fine and refined tannin, red cherries, super delicious!! (95 points)

2017 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Musigny
Floral nose, red cherries, hint of smoke, vanilla… WHAOUW, very delicate, very very silky tannin, red fruit, very feminine, 30 sec finish!! (97 points)

Tasting of 2015 & 2016 from bottle:

2016 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin
Delicious nose, lactic, hint of vanilla…. Very nice “petits fruits rouges” sappy acidity, super refined tannin, delicious! (93 points)

2016 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Au Closeau
Complex nose, black cherries, mineral, light vanilla, characoal… Loads of very ripe tannin, very sappy but still elegant and accessible, hint of menthol, nice freshness. (96 points)

2016 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaut St. Jacques
Vineyard has fresh wind from the combe of Lavaux… Nose of peper, very oriental spicy, black cherries… Very fruity taste, nice freshness, no tannin, more feminine taste, black fruit. (94 points)

2016 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin
Huge nose of flowers, rose petal, red fruit, pain d’épices… Very mineral combined with concentrated fruit, loads of cherries, lenght of 45 sec, delicious! BRAVO! (97 points)

2016 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Bonnes Mares
Nose of black cherries jam, très gourmand, speculoos, oriental spices… Very nice freshness, finesse, hint of small red fruit, très gourmand et chaleureux, 30 seconds finish. (96 points)

2016 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
Nose of sous-bois, black cherries, compact and mineral… Very mineral taste, red berries, loads of super silky tannin, lenght of 45 sec!! (95 points)

2015 Domaine Drouhin-Laroze Chambertin-Clos de Bèze
Delicious nose of ripe cherries, quite spicy… super silky tannin, delicious ripe red cherries, lenght of 45 seconds, great great wine!! (97 points)

 

 

Bourgogne blanc – Pierre Yves Colin Morey

PYCM 2018

Pierre Yves Colin Morey has been a favorite in recent white Burgundy tastings… So it was time to dedicate a tasting focusing on this talented winemaker!

In a nutshell, the main learnings are that the St-Aubin are definitely in the league of great wines… 2010 vintage was absolutely gorgeous and at perfect maturity at age of 8… The 1er Cru were a bit too ripe compared to the perfectly balance village wine, but improved a lot after 3 hours aeration… The Grand Cru was way too young at age a 4 and waste of wine… But overall a very memorable tasting!!

2016 Gerard Thomas Bourgogne Blanc
Nice nose of mineral, wet stones, yellow grass dryed in the sun, green apple, hint of vanilla… Taste laser sharp vanilla & citrus, very nice for an entry level Burgundy! (90 points)

2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Bourgogne Blanc
Light nose of yellow apple, grilled hazelnuts, hint of greenness… very pure green & yellow apple, nice concentration for an entry level Burgundy! (91 points)

2015 Gerard Thomas Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Chatenière
Very nice nose of honey, fleur d’accacia, yellow grass, yellow apple, nice mineral smell… Ananas, exotic fruit, nice citrus & mineral finish. (93 points)

2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Chatenière
WOW, huge nose of matchstick, grilled hazelnut, yellow apples, ananas, mineral…. Nice concentration, yellow citrus & mineral first, oystershell, lenght 30 sec! (94 points)

2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Meursault Les Narvaux
Huge matchstick and ananas, yellow grass… Super delicious and sappy mineral, honey & citrus finish, I really like this vintage & style!! Perfectly mature at age of 8. (94 points)

2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Puligny-Montrachet Le Trézin
Very powerful nose, full of mineral, almost sulfur stone! Iodine penetrating nose… Rich citrus and ananas, nice mineral in the background, superb & nice balance, great great wine!! (94 points)

2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnières – (Corked)

2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain
Ripe ananas, mineral & sulfur, hint of honey… Nice concentration, nice acidity, hint of mineral, hint of herbal in the finish… Good, but below the level of village Puligny 2010!! (93 points)

2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes
Candied nose, more ripe than the village wines, with less acidity… Very nice mineral taste, hint of citrus, good but a little bit below the village wines of 2010 vintage… (92 points)

2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne
Nose of coing, classic mineral & citrus, grilled hazelnut, still very restrained at this stage, but refined and feminine… Loads of green apples, citrus, yellow apple finish, very delicate and great lenght of 60 seconds… wait 5 more years before retasting!! (94+ points)

La montagne de Corton: Capitain-Gagnerot

This domain located on the foot of the montagne de Corton has always been a favourite since about 20 years I’m visiting them… They seem to improve their winemaking year-in year-out… their 2015 and 2016 are a big success!!

2015 Domaine Capitain-Gagnerot Ladoix 1er Cru Bois Roussot
Nose of cerise “croquante”, mineral… Very sappy, “croquant”, ripe tannin, nice acidity, nice lenght, très “gourmand” – Terroir argilo-calcaire (92 points)

2015 Domaine Capitain-Gagnerot Ladoix 1er Cru La Micaude
Very nice nose of red cherries, spicy nose, pain d’épices… Loads of super silky tannin, lenght of 30 seconds!! (94 points)

2016 Domaine Capitain-Gagnerot Ladoix 1er Cru La Micaude
Nose of red cherries, floral… Very nice acidity, sappy cherries, classic Burgundy vintage… (93 points)

2015 Domaine Capitain-Gagnerot Corton-Les Grandes Lolieres
Spicy nose, red berries, chalky… Light red berries, very mineral red cherries, nice freshness, good lenght (94 points)

2015 Domaine Capitain-Gagnerot Corton-Maréchaudes
Very spicy nose, framboises mûres, pain d’épices, cerise confite… Super silky tannin, ripe red cherries, nice spiciness, super sappy grand Cru, lenght of 30 sec, delicious wine!! (96 points)

 

 

Puligny-Montrachet: Tour de la montagne

It is always very learnful to taste side by side the Puligny Montrachet wines blind against their St-Aubin peers, as they are located on the same mountain, touching each other… The St-Aubins performed great… But the Puligny’s from Pierre Yves Colin Morey (Le Trezin) and the Puligny 1er Cru from Henri Boillot were absolutely killer wines!!

2014 Gerard Thomas Saint-Aubin Champ Tirant
Light nose of honey, citrus, yellow grass dried in the sun… Taste of green apple, light chalk, nice citrus finish (90 points)

2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin La Pucelle
Nice nose of flintstones, matchstick, noisettes grillées, citrus, honey… Super delicious, smoky, citrus, flintstones, super finish, great great village wine at 1er Cru level easy!! (93 points)

2011 Louis Jadot Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Very nice nose of mineral, green apple, quite spicy… Light taste of green apple, lacking a bit of mineral, good acidity, loads of spices… (91 points)

2014 Gerard Thomas Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Smoky nose, hint of vanilla, nice mineral… Very high tension, nice mineral, super citrus, very nice!! (92 points)

2014 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien
Huge nose of mineral, light citrus… Loads of citrus, super concentration, good length 20-30 sec! (93 points)

2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Combes
Simple nose of yellow straw, green apples… teaste of yellow and fgreen apples, good but not great… (90 points)

2010 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly
Premox? (NR/flawed)

2016 Gerard Thomas Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne
Nose of green apple, hint of vanilla, hint of smoke, good tension and more complex than the St-Aubin… Nice taste of citrus, good tension, yellow apple, hazelnut, good complex finish! (94 points)

2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Puligny-Montrachet Le Trézin
Super nice nose of grilled hazelnuts, citrus, smoke… Very very long aftertaste, super tension, citrus, nice yellow apple fatness… Lenght of 45 sec, at level of 1er Cru easy!! (95 points)

2013 Domaine Henri Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Mouchère
Huge nose of hazelnut, matchstick, huge citrus… Smoky, nice tension, superb lenght… Not the best vintage of mouchère, but still the #1 best wine of the night!! (96 points)

2013 Paul Pernot et ses Fils Bâtard-Montrachet
Huge nose of honey, ripe tropical fruit, yellow apple, lacking a bit of mineral and citrus… taste of honey, green apple, freshly cut grass, huge lenght of 60 sec but lacking a bit of mineral and citrus… (94 points)